Daily Tip for Home Builder – Drywall Continued

Tip: Use tape measure ruler and utility knife to measure and score sheet at the same time; then snap at the score Check for protrusions in studs/joists before hanging a sheet. Use “Metal Lifter” to lift bottom of sheet slightly off floor and then screw it. Need screw gun with a slip clutch to prevent overdriving drywall screws; it also creates a dimple to set screw head Run the blade of trowel over the drywall surface before taping and mudding to hear/feel any protrusions. Don’t rough up or scrape drywall when using tools and sanding because it will cause dull spots under the paint Drywall on ceilings must always run perpendicular to ceiling joists. Bottom chord on trusses rarely runs level so attach strapping to bottom chord (1” by material) lengthwise and level with shims to make perfectly level plane for drywall. Never force drywall sheets into tight fits. Instead trim off butt edges and plaster the edge gaps later. Don’t fasten inside corner edges of drywall; place screws 12” back from corner. A technique for stronger bonding and less popping is to place two screws 2” apart every 12 inches; Use self adhering fiberglass mesh tape; no base coat required; but use paper tape for corners since it is easy to make a stiff and straight crease in the paper. Use as little mud as possible (and only 2 coats) in inside corners and only flair out 6″. Use high strength setting type compound for first coat only (and corner bead coat); use rounded edge corner bead (not square edge) for more professional outside corners. Hand tighten bead with Phillips head screw driver to avoid dents and bends. Cover over all window and door openings with drywall and then cut out with router or keyhole saw. Install drywall on ceilings first; mark stud locations on both the floor and the ceiling. Sand each coat using a sanding pole with open mesh abrasive screen being careful to never scuff the drywall paper.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Drywall:

Always start drywall with outside wall first (after ceiling). Start at top of wall and work down. Use toe lift to leave 1/2” gap under lowest piece. If more than one horizontal seam is needed make it disappear by running it below eye level in center of wall. Type X drywall must completely enclose an attached garage interior. All walls and ceilings where it adjoins house. Steel beams and columns must be enclosed in 2 or 3 layers of type X drywall for fireproofing. Check local code. Drywall screws for studs are 1 1/4 inch. Drywall screws must be non-corrosive Use shorter screws when attaching drywall over pocket doors install drywall perpendicular to ceiling joists For 9’ ceilings run drywall 4’ X 10’ vertically cut down to actual height. This should make fewer seams than running it perpendicular to studs. For 9’ ceilings run 4.5’ X (10’ up to 16’) sheets perpendicular. Goal is the least total length of seams and no junctures with 4 corners. Long side of drywall sheet is factory tapered which makes it easier to tape and plaster the seam. Cut edges almost always look worse when plastered so don’t use scrap pieces. Some drywall has treatment for resisting mold and mildew. Good idea to treat interiors of all wall cavities. Don’t cut out openings in drywall opposite from each other in adjoining walls. Stagger them for soundproofing. Outdoor patio ceilings can be sheathed in exterior grade drywall with V-shape tongue and groove. Mildew proof and seal them before painting. Consider spray-on acoustical plaster for drywall ceilings No drywall seams over door or window edges to avoid cracking; instead join in center of rough opening. Always use 3 coats of mud over drywall – use flashlight to examine seams and screw/nail holes Mark all stud positions on floor before drywalling!!!! Don’t fasten drywall to multi-board beams because they move and crack; instead bridge the seam. Always run drywall and sheathing perpendicular to studs. Leave 1/2” gap between drywall and finished floor base to eliminate wicking later from water spills/flooding. Taper mud further out on butt joints than on factory tapered joints 3 coats of mud over three days; sanded after each coat. Drywall has factory tapered edge (longwise to eliminate crowning of taped and plastered joints). Caution for odd size widths. Omit fasteners in drywall where walls and ceiling meet to prevent popping and cracking; otherwise, 7” to 1st ceiling fastener 8” to 1st wall fastener. 4’ X 8’ x 1/2” drywall sheet weighs 55 lbs; X-board and green board 66 1bs. Minimize the number of joints by using 10’ or 12’ (16’?) drywall sheets. Drywall also comes in 4.5’ widths for 9’ ceilings.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Concrete Slabs

You can read anywhere about the actual pouring of a slab. But, here are some tips that you might otherwise overlook: When laying a slab that will be tiled or set with stone/marble, finish the slab surface with just a wood float and not a steel trowel and no additives to concrete. This makes the best bonding surface for later thin-set mortar. Slightly rough surface for slab is best for many reasons (hides imperfections, slip proof, bonding of cementateous coverings, etc.) Move the screed in a saw-like motion resting it on outer boards that act as guides. Powered screed does the best job. Drains can be installed under the slab before pouring if needed for natural springs or if the surface of the slab could collect water. Be careful that the drain cannot work in reverse and pump water onto the slab years later. Consider special termite-sand under the slab. The sand particle size is too large for the termite to carry and too small for them to get between them when packed tight. Run all electric, gas, water, and cable in PVC conduit under the slab and in block walls. Cover ends with duct tape to keep conduit clean and ready for runs later. Waste/drain lines should be cast iron when buried in concrete. Don’t use a Hilte gun to attach your bottom plates to slab; instead use J-bolts set in the wet slab to create strength for hurricane-force wind. Or, use a butterfly shape strap that is set in cement and then later wrapped over plate and up the side of stud and nailed onto stud.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Drywall Over Concrete

There is always some debate on whether to drywall over concrete or CMU block walls. Some people like to just paint the concrete, or first apply a cementateous seal and then paint. If you’re going to apply the cement-like material, you can have a textured stucco or a smooth plaster finish so don’t let the finish be your reason for wanting drywall. The most important thing to consider before installing drywall is moisture buildup behind the wall. This means that the wall must be waterproofed before you close it in. This is especially true for basements. Another aspect of moisture is that the cool cement can condense water vapor in the space behind the wall. So, a vapor barrier of 4 mil plastic is a good idea, followed by insulation batts to keep the warm air from the cool wall. It is also a good idea to spray the back side of the drywall with a mold-resistant chemical. Once you have decided that drywall is the way to go, you have a choice of either building a classic 2X4 stud wall, or thinner furring strips. A good alternative is just turning the 2X4 on their sides. If you don’t build the classic stud wall, remember that space for outlets and pipes will need to be knocked out of blocks during construction and before filling the block with grout. Remember to calculate space for insulation and any door or window sill depth.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Framing

If your foundation is not completely level, cut the sill plate slightly or use shims at 1 foot increments to make it level all around. Start laying the sill at highest point if you don’t want to cut the plate. Remember to use pressure treated lumber and lay down a sill gasket or seal. Always square-up exterior walls to the inside edge to account for any slight differences in sawn dimension and have all “bows/crowns” faced to exterior. This will make interior walls as square as possible and exterior finish can more easily hide defects than can be hidden by drywall. Nail a few spacers to outside edge of walls and then tie a string so that spacers can just touch the horizontal string. Move the wall to adjust the spacing and then nail it down. (similar to lining courses of block). When framing walls, don’t install the top of double top plate until after partitions are up. Then install top plate being careful to not have butt joints over another joint, but do butt-join over the middle of a stud. This overlaps the plates and increases the strength. Plus, the top plate of a partition will join the exterior wall with an overlap. To install a 1”X6” let-in brace; lay board diagonally across studs while wall section is on the ground and tack it in place. Cut each stud on both sides of 6” width and then cut ends of board where they cross the leftmost and rightmost studs. Plunge-cut the studs for 1X6 notch. Nail each end of brace in place but leave all other nailing into studs until after the wall is up and plumbed/leveled/squared. Or, use L shaped metal brace by cutting kerf for the small end of L. Do not attach the top plates of interior partitions to the bottom chord of trusses; it could cause the wall to move with expansion/contraction and crack the drywall seams and moldings.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – More Tool Suggestions

Read some tool reviews from sources like Consumer Reports. Power tool brands that rate high are: Ryobi, Milwaukee, Makita, Craftsman, Porter Cable. Carbide tip blades are best for sawing wood. If your circular saw does not have a blade break, buy a new one. A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) is a must-have and next most valuable after circular saw. You’ll need a 16 oz curved claw hammer (remember to use wood block as a shim when extracting nails with claw.) and a 20 oz framing hammer (Estwing is best) with checkered head (and keep head roughed up to prevent misses). Use a speed square, not a combination square which will only add clutter to your tool box. You will need a framing square and short and long levels. Buy stair gauges (2 small pieces). They attach to bottom plate of circular saw and act as a guide for ripping wood. Add  a prybar and wrecking bar to your tool list. Wonder Bar nail puller is the best. Also, you’ll need a sledge hammer. Invest in a Screw gun (electric screwdriver i.e. for drywall) with adjustable speed, reversible, adjustable nose for depth of countersinking screw head. Duraspin drywall screwgun with reel of screws is a good idea for DIY.
For concrete work, buy a tool for bending or cutting re-bar; you bolt it to a board, insert rebar rod and move lever. Cool! Stanley brand tape measure ‘‘Fat Man’’ 30FT by 1.5” stays rigid up to 12 ft extension, Long tape by Lufkin 100 FT fiberglass (not steel).Twist the rebar ties with Rat Tail or Yo Yo tools. Always need Hammer-Tackers for attaching Tyvek, tar paper, insulation batts, plastic sheets, etc.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Tool Box Suggestions

Today we will discuss some ideas for your toll box. Don’t buy top of the line tools; step down a level or two. You can void sales tax on tools by buying on the Internet, but expect transportation costs unless you can find free shipping. How about a locked shipping container on site for materials and tools. Buy this book! “Do It Yourself Housebuilding” by George Nash is a must-have reference to keep onsite. Remember to add a hacksaw and blades; and, a special scoring tool for cutting cement board (Red Devil). Does your back ache? Buy an extension screw gun for driving screws into decking while standing up straight; it also grasps the screw. Use red chalk lines on concrete blue on wood (carry two chalk lines in tool kit). Never use masonry nails; use drive-pins or lag bolts with metal expansion sleeve. Consider three separate tool boxes: carpentry electrical and plumbing. Use your router to cut openings for sinks and rough openings in sheathing and drywall. There is a special pneumatic hammer for attaching joist hangers and other straps/hangars. The nail protrudes from the hammer to allow it be centered in a hole in the hangar before firing. Note that there is a special hole saw for electric drill; regular drill bit makes starter hole for center and then you insert point of tool and bit cuts the circumference of hole. Its adjustable for various diameters. Consider heavy duty 1/2” right angle drill for running electric and plumbing through studs/joists (auger bit and hole saw).

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Safety and Security Continued

This continues the discussion of safety and security at your home site. If you plan to do much work by yourself, I suggest you read up on it first. “Working Alone: Tips and Techniques for Solo Building” by John Carroll is a good place to start. Here is one such tip for installing trusses: Nail a vertical 2X4 to peak of truss to use as a temporary lever/handle for flipping truss into place. Do not carry OSB or plywood up a ladder. Instead, create a plywood lift. Make a 2X4 ledge halfway up the exterior wall. Lay sheet on this ledge and then turn sheet up on end so sheet can be grabbed from above. Roofing brackets needed for safety when slope is more than 4-12. Use roof jacks to prevent falls and sliding materials. Patio doors must be tempered glass for safety. . Be sure to use bracing and safety lines when raising exterior walls above ground level, a very dangerous job. Consider sheathing these walls when laid flat to avoid ladder work later but extra weight is a big factor. Remember to use diagonal let-in bracing in all stud walls to prevent racking. Consider the swing when installing casement windows and don’t block paths or patio area when opened. Avoid a nasty bump in the head when working below an open casement window. Window sizes (CABO); code indicates that a fireman and his equipment must pass through opening. Need separate flue for each fireplace in a shared chimney. Run vent pipe inside a larger vent pipe so the air space keeps the outside pipe cool. Fireplace should draw air for combustion from an outside vent; room air is circulated around the fire box for heating. Install CO2 detectors as part of your alarm system. Lithium batteries in smoke alarms last 10+ years. Add a separate shut off near the electric meter and lock it; easier to work when entire service is shut off. Install all Electrical outlets with third prong (ground) at top of outlet in case something falls across a plug and shorts across hot and neutral. | ° |. Don’t use lead-based solder on pipes (can cause illness/death); use tin-antimony instead. Clean all cement handling tools immediately as well as any powder or cement from your body and clothes. Consider a home defibrillator on the job site and in your household later.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – Safety and Security

If feasible, erect a temporary construction fence (padlocked) to keep people and pets away from hazards as well as protection from theft and vandalism. Conduct a daily cleanup of jobsite and street. Make an on-site safety checklist and invest in a first aid kit. Pressure treated lumber is now treated with a copper compound and is much more expensive but safer. It is still toxic, so wear a mask when sawing and gloves when handling. Clean up sawdust and scraps. Inspect all framing for correct number of fasteners; It is easy to miss some when raising walls and that could be dangerous. Don’t use ladders if scaffolding with railing is available; a fall can kill! Ladder safety: Don’t carry anything up a ladder; use tool belts and raise material; wear a harness when working up high. Place the base of ladder out 25% of its height i.e. 20’ ladder out 5’. The top of the ladder rails must extend at least 3’ above the step-off point i.e. the roof. Rough up hammer head to avoid glancing blows. Even pros wear safety glasses. Invest in a pair that you don’t mind wearing constantly. A router is a very dangerous tool! Pipes and rebar sticking out of footers slab and floor systems are dangerous. Cover with foam padding in case of a fall. Use a rolling work seat when working at low points i.e. landscaping wood trim painting. Knee pads when working on floors decks. Avoid smashing fingers when hammering, especially on small nails. Set circular saw blade depth plus one eighth inch and cut through saw horse; that kerf is harmless and will avoid accidents. Handling wire mesh; unroll and flip it over and bend it backwards to work the spring out of the mesh. Bend the cut ends back to join the overlaps and to prevent punctures to the vapor barrier (and injury from touching sharp edges). Consider wet traction on steep driveways and walkways; score the concrete or stiff brush it before the slab sets. Don’t backfill around retaining block walls until after the mortar and poured slab have cured because the pressure can cause the walls to collapse.

Daily Tip for Home Builder – What is Truly DIY?

As an owner-builder there are many tasks that fall in the “Do It Yourself” (DIY) category. Whether your motivation is to save money or the shear enjoyment, there is plenty to keep you busy. However, there are certain jobs that you shouldn’t attempt unless you have a lot of prior experience. Here is my list of “Do’s and Don’ts”:
Don’t attempt these jobs: Framing, concrete pour, metal work and welding, roofing, marble or granite, pool or spa, finish carpentry, HVAC, final plumbing, electrical (final and service panel), drywall, counter tops, fireplaces, doors and windows.

But, Do attempt this extensive list: Site cleanup and safety protection/security, Help erect move and inspect scaffolds and safety rails, Checking for level plumb and square; inspect for code, Operate chop saw, File receipts and all job records, Counting and inventory periodically, Measure and cut for framers and carpenters, Install blocking, Tool cleaning and maintenance, Demolition, Compact soil lay gravel sand rebar mesh and vapor barrier, Layout footers with builder’s level staking and batter board, spray paint excavation outline, Build forms for footers, Lay CMU block walls, Hod carrier, Build French drains, Water proofing, Build decks, Caulking, Insulation, Rough electrical wiring, cable, phone PC, TV, security, intercom. Light fixtures, outlets, switches, ceiling fans, exhaust fans, Install cabinets, Appliance hookup, Gutters, Railings, Painting, Home Theatre, Mirrors, Trenching light excavation temporary retaining walls and temp fencing, Landscape and sprinkler system, Retaining walls and stone walls, Final cleaning of house, Final Punch list tasks.
As you can see, there is plenty for the DIY builder to do!